The Guide: Edinburgh
We’ve had this one cooking for a while. A recent trip helped us fine-tune details and now we’re able to launch the next edition of The Guide for Scotland’s capital. It’s a combination of traditional cobblestone streets with modern additions, Edinburgh has a big city feel but still manages to be authentic with an ability to forge connections (just speak to any independent shopkeeper), which is often a struggle in larger cities.
Due to our unsolicited hiatus, we’ve treated you to extra recs and woven in our trip to Leith. If you like coffee, you’re covered.
National Galleries of Scotland: Modern
As a part of Scotland’s national galleries collection, we always gravitate to Modern One and Modern Two. Both showcase masterpieces from the 20th & 21st centuries and their collections consist of works from some of the greats; Joan Miró, Pablo Picasso, Joseph Beuys, and many Turner Prize winners. You’ll also find sculptures by Barbara Hepworth and Henry Moore peppered throughout the grounds. A little walk out of the central hub of the city in the West End, it’s worth meandering over to see the best of modern art.
You’ll find menswear brand Kestin's flagship store in the Stockbridge neighbourhood of Edinburgh; we cannot recommend this area enough for independent brands and small businesses, but we digress. Rooted in Scottish heritage in terms of design, and locally sourced materials, UK production is a must for them, where possible but if going global, they only work with the best. It’s workwear that, obviously, is designed to last and manufactured responsibly. And as you know, these are big ticks for us.
Wine bar and shop, Spry are (we’d say) the go-to destination for natural wines in Edinburgh. The interiors are a delight, they have a wide variety of bottles for purchase and it’s a serene setting to sample some of the slower, organically produced wines from regions you may have not explored. We’ll also raise a glass to the complimentary food menu. Think - Sourdough, Butter, Olives, Pickles. All the basics with a little bit more to it.
Welcome to Spry Wines’ little sister, in the lower level of the bar itself; Ante. A coffee shop meets bakery concept and host of many collaborative events with the likes of La Cabra & ØKENDE, showcasing the best coffee from elsewhere. If we had to choose, we’d have the French omelette with rye bread again, there’s absolutely no doubt.
Being located in Edinburgh’s Old Town is rather relevant and in-keeping with the Scottish cheesemongers; I J Mellis due to their longstanding history in the industry (amassing thirty years) and providing traditional customer service (watch them chop your cheese, there and then). They specialise in artisan farmhouse cheese, rather than mass-produced and they also have stores in Glasgow, Aberdeen, and St Andrew’s so do incorporate them into your Scottish road trip for stock-ups.
Modern meets the ‘old school’ general store and another Stockbridge store recommendation, Edinburgh Mercantile offers a beautifully curated collection of utilitarian products that do not overlook design, quality, and craftsmanship. Showing that function, doesn’t necessarily override aesthetics and the two can harmoniously work together to elevate the everyday; from list-making to dusting to cooking. On our last visit, we picked up a new journal and we think it’s very on-brand.
Running between the National & Portrait galleries of Scotland? Make Lowdown your coffee pit stop at their basement cafe. Naturally, the interiors are a big tick for us. It’s sleek, simple, and a perfect spot to escape the rain, away from the bustle of New Town, as we recently discovered. A latte and a carrot cake was our last order and we’d recommend it.
Fruitmarket prides itself on being a free, public space for all. It’s a stone’s throw away from Edinburgh Waverley train station so there’s no reason for you not to visit. Over the years, they’ve showcased some of the greats in art; Yoko Ono, Eva Hesse and more recently, Martin Creed and Tacita Dean. The list goes on. Their bookshop is home to non-fiction and critical theory across contemporary culture and they also are hosts to an engagement programme tapping into each exhibition with family-friendly, learning activities.
Despite there being plenty of pubs to go at across Edinburgh, we’re a sucker for all things low-intervention wine and craft beer. So for us, Brauhaus is our happy place. Like all things independent, they’re very good at stocking and supporting other small businesses; coffee takeovers and new releases from local breweries. We beg of you, do ask for a wee dram.
A gallery space and Edinburgh’s ‘Centre for Photography,’ Stills not only exhibit innovative photography, but they provide equipment hire across cameras & audio equipment and sell film rolls, paper, publications & prints. You can also book a slot to step inside their library on the second floor to read rare books on photography which can’t be found elsewhere - see their online catalogue here.
In the heart of Edinburgh, Timberyard is a family-run restaurant which has achieved 1 Michelin star, deservedly. It’s rustic, they’ve got a cellar full of exquisite wines, have a private room called The Shed and ensure that they’re cooking with produce from homegrown suppliers. Choose from 5-course, 3-course or tasting menus. What is it about the simplicity of bread & cultured butter?
A farm shop built on the foundation of having a ‘well-stocked larder’ at home, The Bear’s Larder has the loveliest selection of artisan produce. Anything you could wish for as an ‘essential’ in the culinary world, is there; baked goods, local vegetables, coffee (of course), store cupboard must-haves and fresh dairy. On a warmer day, you’ll find us filling up our canvas bag with the goods and enjoying a picnic in one of the local parks; there’s plenty around to choose from.
Jorum Studio is a modern fragrance brand founded & based in Scotland, that embodies their homeland. Many of the perfumes capture the essence of Edinburgh and use landmarks as place references; Gorseland for Arthur’s Seat, Paradisi for the Royal Botanic Garden and Athenaeum for the National Library. Check out their ‘Scent Soundtracks,’ over on their journal too where they curate playlists to complement each scent. It’s very clever indeed and another way to experience your new signature perfume in full.
Heading out to the coast, be sure to visit Leith; a port district and a suburb of the city. If you’re in the area for an extended period and want to dabble in something hands-on, Edinburgh Sculpture Workshop have courses in stone/wood carving, clay portraiture and ink making. Definitely one to keep on your radar but if you’re in close proximity, architecturally the building is a delight and is also home to MILK; a cafe who have a great menu filled with plant-based and gluten-free goodness.
A picturesque roastery by the waterfront in Leith, nestled in a small multi-complex; Custom Lane which is home to an art gallery and co-working space. William & Johnson rotates their coffee offering to celebrate seasonally grown beans to guarantee they bring you the best possible flavour. They also have a subscription service where you can receive freshly roasted coffee through your letterbox monthly or even weekly.
As ever, The Guide is duplicated on our Instagram and will be added to with more recommendations every so often.
